Wednesday 27 August 2008

26th August - The Swiss Alps

Tuesday 26th August 2008
And then it was cold again! Yesterday we had our most ‘British’ experience of the trip so far, by waking up in what seemed like a large ice bucket - well, almost. We now find ourselves high up in the beautiful Swiss Alps in a quite stunning village called Grimentz, in a handy little free aire with electricity for just CHF 1.50. The journey from the South of France was a long and steep one, but one which was more than definitely worth the effort.

After leaving St. Tropez we spent a few pleasant days in Nice before we visited our 4th country in the shape of little Monaco. We only spent one evening here, mainly due to us having to park what felt like a few miles out of the centre, in fact we were more than likely parked in France due to Monaco’s ridiculous size. We did have a stunning view of Monaco from where we camped for the night though (pictured). We visited the famous Monte Carlo Casino (also pictured), where we pretended to be loaded for one evening even though we spent not a penny on the tables or machines - we fooled nobody. Perhaps it was because I was sporting “ripped jeans”, not the usual attire for someone driving a £100,000 Bentley and spending £1000 on one throw of the dice. It was fun trying though.

Monaco was our last destination in France as we crossed the border into Italy and headed for Turin where we spent 2 days. We arrived on Saturday evening and we were surprised by the lack of activity in the centre of the town and it’s main streets, hardly a soul was about apart from us and a few street traders who can’t have been doing too well that night. We explored Turin properly on Sunday which meant the town was even quieter, and although almost everything was shut we didn’t particularly mind as we were the only tourists about - which made a change from places like Paris, Madrid and Barcelona which we’ve previously visited. Although I was slightly annoyed as I couldn’t find anywhere open which sold an English newspaper and I was desperate to read about Southampton’s one-nil victory of hapless Derby County the previous day.

Turin is a pretty place, but not much to write home about. Perhaps I’m being harsh, and perhaps I am judging it along with the likes of the three cities listed above, but in all honesty there isn’t a great deal to see unless you can afford to spend 10 Euros going into each museum, which Turin is not short of. We did manage to find a handy free (again!) parking spot though, almost in the city centre. We were parked right next to Turin’s second largest train station, and about 5 minutes walk from the main square. There was a little train noise throughout the night but nothing too drastic. We were somewhat apprehensive about leaving Eric here though, it was the first major city since the Marseille fiasco, but we needn’t of worried as no funny business occurred.

Even though we’d only just arrived in Italy, Turin was to be our penultimate stop there as this was only really a passing visit - we’ll explore Italy in full depth later this year when we catch the ferry from Greece or Albania, where we will arrive in either Bari or Brindisi on the South coast. Our final destination in Italy for now though was spent in an Aire listed in our trusty Camper Stop 2007 Guide, in Breuil-Cervinia, way up in the Italian Alps, within touching distance of the 4482ft high ‘Matterhorn’. The road was long and winding (we should have played our Beatles album on the way up) and it took around 30 minutes to reach the aire, but when we did it did not disappoint. The view of the overlooking surrounding mountains was breath taking and the temperature had suddenly fallen from what we have been used to these past few months, and we attracted some odd looks when jumping out of the motor home in just shorts and sandals, as you can imagine. We stayed only one night and although the guide said we’d be charged 6 Euros, nobody ever came to collect anything so we had another free stop over. Before a quick coffee in a nearby cafĂ© we made our way back down the mountain towards Switzerland - what would be our 6th country of the trip so far!

We took the SS26 through Aosta (where I managed to pick up a Sunday Mail, thankfully. A tiny write up on the game mind, surprise surprise.) and then took the SS27 on mountainous terrain towards the Tunnel du St Bernard which would take us through the other side of the Alps into Switzerland. Upon arriving at the pay-point we were greeted with a huge sign saying “Camping Cars 36.50 Euros”. 36.50? For a small tunnel? It was quite ridiculous, and although we’d driven a long way to get there we could not justify spending that much of our budget on one tunnel, so we had to turn back to where we were told by the polite English speaking man in the kiosk that there was a scenic route through the mountains which would add around 45 minutes onto our journey. This didn’t bother us though, the scenic route sounds much prettier than a tunnel, and what’s more it’s 36.50 Euros cheaper. The views over the valleys below were awesome, but the road surface left a lot to be desired. They clearly haven’t done any work to this road since it was built in 500 BC.

When you cross the border into Switzerland, everything changes immediately. Not like when you cross from France to Italy or Spain to Portugal where you can hardly notice a difference. Switzerland stands out from any other country we’ve been to so far. The roads are perfectly maintained, everything sparkles as if it’s just been freshly scrubbed the same morning and the people are always smiling and greet you with a smile and a “Bonjour”. It really is a very agreeable little place.

We wanted to head to another aire listed in the Camperstop book in the town which we currently reside, ‘Grimentz’, for the sole reason that the photograph in the guide is stunning. On the left is a motor home dwarfed by huge snow covered mountains, and on the right a place to get water and electric. It said it was free too so that was a bonus. We drove along the SR21 through Martigny, where we had to draw out some Swiss Francs and headed along the straight and flat D9 in the bottom of a valley running alongside the river Rhone (which we’d last seen in Avignon). The flat Roman like road made a fantastic change from all these hills we’d been twisting and turning up.

We found the turning to go up in the ‘Val d Anniveers’ where the village is located two thirds of the way up. Upon arriving in Grimentz we were greeted by a few other motor homes parked in the road side aire, and although there was no snow like the photo, the location was still perfect.
The village of Grimentz itself is beautiful beyond words, and I have absolutely fallen in love with the place. It’s so quiet and peaceful, so pretty and just so perfect. Stunning dark brown wooden chalet style houses are randomly scattered across the hillside, and the village centre is like something from a fairytale. Each building has shutters on the windows, a small balcony and hundreds of flower baskets hanging off them, which look like they each have a personal professional gardener as they are all so perfectly kept. It adds so much colour to the place. My mother would absolutely love this place too, and when I win the lottery I’ll buy her one of these chalets to retire to.

For me, it feels like the real travelling has started. We’ve had our holiday, we’ve sat on the beach long enough, and now we are into proper Europe, real Europe and certainly beautiful Europe. In my opinion this little village certainly beats any of the major cities we’ve been to for beauty and interest. I could wander these petit streets for hours and never be bored, whereas after a few hours wandering a capital city it starts to take its toll, and the interest wears off after seeing most of the attractions. This village is the closest I’ve experienced since I lived and worked in Brockenhurst in the New Forest, which I absolutely adored for it’s charm and tranquillity, but this place is like no other - hopefully the photos attached do it justice. I don’t quite know where we’re going next (that’s quite a nice feeling to have) but if all of Switzerland is like this then we’re going to have a great time here.


A free rock concert in Monaco
The Aire in Grimentz
The Aire in Breuil-Cervinia

20th August - South of France

Wednesday 20th August 2008


We’re still going, still plodding along! (Despite the lack of recent blog updates).


The trip seems to have taken a much more relaxed pace, which suits us both. We’re taking it much slower now than when we first started, spending more time at each stop and generally taking it easy - this is perhaps because of our sheer excitement and enthusiasm to “get to the next place” when we first started. At the beginning we were moving on literally every day, we’d very rarely stay somewhere for more than 24 hours, but that’s all changed now. For example we spent 4 days in a small town called Torrenueva in South East Spain (highly recommended for Motorhomer’s due to ample ‘on beach’ free parking and superb clear water), a whole week in Mojacar, 3 days in Benidorm, 3 in Barcelona, and 2 days in Banyoles & Narbonne respectively, so the pace really has slowed. It’s given us more time to relax and explore the places we’re visiting.


Barcelona was three days superbly spent. We managed to find a parking space (somehow) in the city centre, about 5 minutes drive from Las Ramblas (the main street) and within touching distance of the beautiful ‘Nou Camp’ football stadium. The parking was free and we weren’t asked to move on. This spot was especially handy for us as we were able to get tickets for the Barcelona v Wisla Krakow match which was a thoroughly enjoyable one. The game finished 4-0 to Barcelona and the atmosphere was superb throughout, the only worrying moment was after the game when a “safety” steward (and I use to term ’safety’ very loosely) tried to pick a fight with me for not leaving the ground quick enough! He was much bigger than I was, so I left it.


The city of Barcelona itself is vibrant and cosmopolitan with a good mix of historical sights thrown in. The famous “Sagrada Familia” was a disappointment though. It’s basically a huge cathedral, which would be stunning I’m sure, if it didn’t have 50% of the whole worlds supply of scaffolding attached to the side of it. They claim they can’t afford to finish it but they still had thousands of tourists (not us I might add) pouring inside each paying 5 Euros to “help us afford to finish this beautiful piece of architecture”… a lovely little scam they’ve got going on there!


After Barcelona we stayed in a large campsite called ‘Camping El Llac’ in the village of Banyoles, not far from the French border. The reason it’s called “El Llac” is due to its lakeside location, which on a hot sunny day is perfect to go boating on, we couldn’t resist and paid the man 10 Euros to row across a huge lake and get stuck several times in the bushes and reeds, much to the amusement of each passer by. ‘Twas good fun though. The Campsite had a large pool, small supermarket, restaurant, good shower and toilet facilities, plenty of places to refill Eric with drinking water and it had a hose, so no fiasco with 1.5l bottles again, thankfully. With electric hook up it set us back 22 Euros per night. Quite steep really but it’s the going rate of all campsites we’ve stayed at.


At around 11pm during our stay at this campsite it strangely started to rain - we hadn’t come across rain for over a month so this was quite a novelty, but after a few minutes we realised it wasn’t just a few drops but more a tropical storm! The rain was coming down like nothing I’ve ever seen in England before… the noise it was making hitting the roof of the Motor home was almost deafening! We wanted to enjoy it so went outside (fully clothed) for a walk, and within minutes the whole campsite was half flooded in around 3/4 inches of water; thunder and lightning exploding above us. We were enjoying it greatly… until we realised we’d left the bloody sun roof open. Splendid.
(Dancing in the rain, left).

We spent a few pleasant days in the French city of Avignon which still has almost a complete set of surrounding ancient walls before heading to Marseille (Frances second largest city). We found a spot to park on the “Quai du Port” which is one of the main streets in the beautiful “Vieux Port”, lined with bustling bars and restaurants. We were parked just around the corner though, out of site from the majority of tourists so we thought we wouldn’t have a problem being moved on. We arrived late at night so after a quick stroll we headed off to bed. In the morning we were surrounded by the same cars and hadn’t been asked to go, so we thought it would be fine to leave Eric there for the day whilst we did all the tourist stuff and explored Marseille, what with it’s beautifully decorated Notre Damn cathedral with quite stunning views over the whole city.
We spent a nice day in the sun and were even given a free ice lolly in a newsagents! The reason being of course is because it cost 80 cents but I tried to pay with a 20 Euro note, so she just let it pass… oops. We’d spent a long day exploring and soon after finishing our lollies it got late so we decided to head back to the motor home, with a pleasant opinion of Marseille and their newsagents left in the memory.


Upon getting closer to Eric we noticed something was not quite right. “What the hell is wrong with the window?” Mike asked. I looked up and saw half of it was on the floor with a hinge hanging in mid air. Our hearts sank, and as we got closer it was clear that we’d been broken into.


Eric was in a complete state. All the cupboards were open and almost everything was on the floor. We were completely gutted. It felt like someone had stabbed us in the back. We quickly looked around to see what had been taken, the first obvious one was the flat screen TV. They completely ripped it from it’s bracket which in itself is bolted down. Apart from that and 47 Euros, it was all the thieves managed to steal. We considered ourselves quite lucky as we could have come off a lot worse if 1) the thieves had thought to look in other places and 2) we didn’t have a safe.


The window (made of plastic) is snapped in half, but thankfully has not been completely broken and we managed to reattach it to the framework and is now pretty sturdy again. We’ll have to get it properly fixed eventually though. It was a complete shock and a pain to lose a very expensive TV, but we’ve treated it as a wake up call. We were stupid to leave valuables lying around, but thankfully they didn’t find them all, so from now on EVERYTHING is going in the safe at all times when we leave Eric.


The police weren’t interested frankly. We told them what happened, in pidgin English, they took a few details and then quite bluntly told us to leave the station - charming. They didn’t even look for themselves and we don’t expect anything to happen. We’ll call the insurance company in a few days when we get our heads out of our books we’re currently reading!

All in all it was a horrible experience but we’ll learn from it and it’ll make us stronger. The trip is going great in general though, and we’ve just spent a nice few days in St. Tropez, another playground for the rich and famous.

Maybe one day we’ll be able to travel in our of the super yachts we saw rather than a motor home… or maybe I should stop dreaming!


(Not a bad parking spot in Mojacar, Spain)